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The bolt is indeed 30mm, I think Ari might be thinking of the axle nut which is 32. I used a standard 12-point socket which worked fine, though ideally a 6-point would be less likely to strip the bolt. I also didn't have a torque wrench and everything worked out okay, though I think it retrospect I would have bought one just for this job. The oil pump bolts a tightened to a very light torque.
I have to disagree with Ari about draining the oil. I did not drain it and only lost a nominal amount that was in the oil pump. The car had sat for over a week before I did the job so maybe that contributed to only having a very slight loss of oil. As a rule you don't need to drain the oil if you are working on anything above the oil pan itself.
I had a slightly hard time removing the oil crank seal. It was dificult to prise out without scratching something. Just be careful. I think a small pick or hook might ease removal. The new one was indeed a tight fit. Since they are only a few dollars you might be inclinded to order two just in case you damage one on installation (as I did.) I did use the socket technique though I think gently tapping in one side at a time will work equally as well.
I hung the breaker bar straight down and let it swing up and hit the A-arm. I probably was too cautious about using this technique and it didn't work for me. I ended up using the a breaker bar with a 12" extension to clear the fender well and suported by a jack stand and I still had to use a 5' length of pipe and actally jump on it to loosen the bolt. It is possible that the pully had been replaced before so whoever did the job previously might have over tightened things.
Best of luck,
Craig
, Fri, 12 Jan 2001 12:27:51, Fri, 12 Jan 2001 14:13:38, Fri, 12 Jan 2001 14:21:29
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