1985-1998 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
 | [Main 9000 Bulletin Board | BBFAQ |
Post Followup ]
Member Login / Signup - Members see fewer ads. - Latest Member Gallery Photos
Not a problem Posted by Ari [Email]  (#2847) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Ari) on Fri, 12 Jan 2001 14:13:38
In Reply to: Ari, about the seal, K, Fri, 12 Jan 2001 13:00:35 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
The main seal just presses in - I think I used a big flat-blade screwdriver to push it into place. I may have tapped it in lightly with a small hammer, working my way around so it went in evenly, but it really was a non-event. The seal has a spring fit so it does what it needs. Mine doesn't leak a year later.
I use the starter motor method to loosen the main pulley bolt, as I don't have an impact wrench. It's exciting, but works great.
First, with the car where you want it, start the car, and with it running, pull the fuel pump fuse (not sure which it is off the top of my head, but it is marked). The engine will die. Next, Jack up and support the right front of the car well. You're going to be working under it anyway, so it had better be well supported - at least one jack stand, preferably two. Remove the RF tire and fender inner liner. You will now be staring straight at the main pulley. Remove the belts. Pull the fat wire from out of the spark plug coil.
Now, put the socket on main pulley bolt, and put the breaker bar on the socket with the bar hanging DOWN. When the pulley turns clockwise, the breaker bar will swing backwards into the lower A arm. Make sure nothing is between the breaker bar and the lower A arm, and make sure the socket is well seated on the nut.
Get in and give the key a quick turn. You should hear a nice 'THUMP' from the front right. Just give the key a blip - you don't want to crank the engine. The reason you pulled the spark plug wire and ran the fuel system dry is so that the engine won't start. Now get out, and make sure the socket is still seated firmly on the bolt. Repeat the process, checking after each time if the bolt is finally loose, and if not, that the socket is still seated well. At some point, the bolt will be loose, and you'll be able to spin it off easily. The main pulley then just pulls off.
To tighten the bolt, I put my torque wrench in from above. I moved the coolant reservoir to the side to give me a little more room (no need to drain it, just remove the 10mm bolt and slide it sideways some). I jammed a screwdriver into the flywheel gear teeth to tighten the bolt.
Remember, if you pull off the oil pump to replace the O-ring, you will need to prime the pump. There are a few methods, including squiring oil in through the relief valve. I like the method of packing the gears in the oil pump in vaseline and reassembling.
When all is done, crank the engine until the oil light goes out. Then reinsert the fuel pump fuse AND spark coil wire.
Good luck!
, Fri, 12 Jan 2001 12:27:51, Fri, 12 Jan 2001 14:13:38 <-- Viewing This Message, Fri, 12 Jan 2001 14:21:29
No Site Registration is Required to Post - Site Membership is optional (Member Features List), but helps to keep the site online
for all Saabers. If the site helps you, please consider helping the site by becoming a member.
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
