1985-1998 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
Matthew:
I understand your symptoms much better now. What follows stems directly
from experience with my two 1986 9000T's, and may not exactly apply to your
vehicle. Were this my situation, here's what I'd do (aside from getting a
legal opinion with respect to the dealer's attitude): Start with the master cylinder. It's easy to get at, easy and very inexpensive to rebuild. I would also ensure that the supply hose to the master is of the correct type, just in case someone stuck an ordinary rubber hose in there in the past (this has been known to cause deterioration of rubber parts in both master and slave). Your problem may be solved at this point. I am also assuming that you have no hydraulic fluid loss (if you do, and it appears at the bottom of the transmission housing, then your slave is leaking). If the problem persists, and bleeding has been properly carried out (not always the case) the next step would be to replace the master - a much simpler procedure than removing the transmission in order to get at the slave. I would rebuild/replace the slave as a last remedy (and replace the clutch at the same time) - certainly not in conjunction with master work, of which it is independent. One last, unlikely possibility: check the pressure hose between master and slave. Is there leakage at the rubber to steel crimp? At the steel to steel union? Has the rubber part deteriorated to the extent that it behaves like a balloon when the clutch is depressed? (Check by closing your hand around the hose while someone pumps the cluch pedal - the hose should expand only minimally - ask me how I know this!) I have no insight into the shimmy or bounce - unless it's a function of minimal disengagement. Wish you luck!
Peter
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