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Saab Model 99 Bulletin Board
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Re: Stall while driving, fuel pump??
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Posted by Don Wollum [Email] (more from Don Wollum) on Thu, 15 Aug 2024 16:39:18 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Re: Stall while driving, fuel pump??, Jawerdna [Profile/Gallery] , Tue, 9 Jul 2024 14:08:28
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Hi,

the female connectors any and everywhere under 99 fuse boxes spread the 2 curled metal rolled sections on the outside of the female. Corrosion a second reason for voltage drop or non flow amperage conditions. plugging in relay does nada if one or more female conn are spread and do not pinch 5 relay male conns.

never add aluminum male or female part store connectors. use eurp bosch spec AMP connectors and use the specific to that systen crimping tool conn on amazon: Twidec/150PCS 6.3mm Male Female Spade Connector Quick Splice Crimp Terminals Non Insulated Wire Connector for Electrical Wiring Relay

To Test female conns for the "spring tension" the 2 curls make to make at least a minimally firm connection is to take cut out a male spade from an old relay, then use this test sizing " sword" to insert in each of the fuel pump relay positions. the test spade should be gripped well requiring a decided thumb push in pressure for a OK measurement.

If no tightness in noted. a awl pointed or test light probe can pry the 2 curl springs together ( Hmm iffy though - in emergency this is ok, best id to roll fuse box 90 degrees vertical and using flattened tool like a 2" box brass staple, to insert in the little square notch midway on flat side of female to release tang, then with loose female removed carefully w flat pliers give the curls a careful light pinch, little at a time then test with male for thumb insertion "grip:

One can clean each female connector in the fuse panel by taking a second male connector, holding it flat on a surface.. take a medium fine flat file, place the narrow side of file to spade on table, tilt the file small edge - 45 degrees - so file saw teeth make a scratching "file" to male spade, then RAKE edge of file ( its edge teeth will create a cross hatch ) then turn over spade conn and scratch other side. a fine hack saw blade does well to at crosshatching the spare spade cleaning tool. and YES a small file that will when inserted in the relay socket female connector clean the contact surfaces.
during final pass apply small amount of : LABORATORIES DeoxIT D100L-2DB Brush Applicator, to carry away loosened oxidation and remaining deoxit weather seals and improves electron flow alot

Num 8 fuel pump female will be loose too ( from heat ) this conn has a latch tab to loosen to remove

detach each female at fuse 8 and plier tighten curls

finally the ceramic fuse for #* has its tangs that hold 8 amp fuse ( 16 amp fuse is OK ) looses, remove fuse 8 and bend into center fuse holder contacts

first thought is to be sure spark is there, number one, hot soak the fine wire inductive coil inside the distributor under the 4 magnet pointer wheel, has a trait of open or gap in windings when hot.

so when car stops, do also check if spark goes away. so crank with friend watching coil wire 1/4 ' away from front engine lifting hook. Why? term 31B of fuel pump relay NEEDS a spark ( tack ) signal to pull down relay. look while cranking to see if tack ( if equipped ) bounces during cranking.

finally, just turning key to run, ( not crank ) runs f pump one second so when quiet and f pump cover off, you can hear pump run one second.

while there, under 1"x6" galvanized steel plate under is a 3 pole connector for fuel pump, check connections there, and also galvanized cover plate, the f pump ground is just towards the rear bumper 4-5 " and make sure that is tight.

posted by 129.222.2...
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