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Re: 400+ hp club ... details
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Posted by RAB (more from RAB) on Thu, 17 Jan 2002 21:55:41 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: 400+ hp club ... details, Kevin K [Profile/Gallery] , Thu, 17 Jan 2002 19:04:48
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Kevin,

I really respect your opinion and read everything that you post. I guess that I am into the bigger is better thing, as long as it works. Most SDS users aren't using injectors this large unless they are using alcohol, which I am considering if I ever get into trying a drag track, we only have 1/8 mile local though. Seriously though, I am looking into propane.

The only thing that I am sure of is that I had a fuel problem, when duty cycle got around 90% with the 41# injectors, which happened just before 5K @ 15psi, things just got stupid, and fuel pressure was where it should be, right at 60psi with a 3 bar FPR. I also went to a new stock pump wired with heavier gauge and soldered connecters about the same time. I, no doubt had a fuel issue, to deal with, so I did it all at pretty much at once. My setup was a well used pump, bought used and at least another 100K that I put on it. It was a later model which had different connectors, so I modifified spades to fit bullets. This never gave me a problem with the stock engine, even with the 2:1 RRFPR, but it may have been the real cause of my fuel problems.

None of that really matters now, because they do work well, starts idles and runs great. I pull in 10 degrees timing under high vacuum and most of the cruise range, tapering it from 10" Hg to 0 psi, where it is at the base for whatever RPM you are at. 0 degrees @ 500 RPM, 18 @ 750 and 1000, then it increases to 36, all pulled in by 2500 RPM, where it stays to redline, 7.5K. Boost retard of 2 degrees starts at 4psi and increases to 20 degrees at 18 psi, which is carried all the way to 30psi. Timing at idle is 28, timing under boost is never less than 16 and is 46 under most cruise conditions.

This timing stuff is amazing, I've learned so much, it is unreal. At idle and light load you can run more timing and lean the mixture. You can sit there with the controller in your hand and just punch buttons. The idle mixture is fat, you can lean it, vacuum drops, so does idle speed. You can change timing, reatard it, idle speed drops and it gets fatter, vacuum decreases; advance it, idle speed and vacuum increases and the mixture leans, then you can drop the mixture even more. I get a nice clean steady idle at 750-1000, which looks like 900 on the tach and pull 19-21" Hg, which is two setting on the MAP sensor. If put into closed loop at idle, it acts just like stock, with that occasional lean stumble. All this advance has let me signicantly lean out the cruise range, I recently got almost 35mpg on an 800 mile weekend trip to LA, no PS or A/C.




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