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You don't disconnect the grounds when testing-leave Posted by nicknick [Email] (#731) [Profile/Gallery] (more from nicknick) on Mon, 22 Feb 2010 19:43:33 In Reply to: your kidding right, vvack0matic [Profile/Gallery] , Mon, 22 Feb 2010 18:26:14 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
them exactly as they are, and run the ammeter in paralell (sp?) to the actual fitting (as in-one probe on the collar of the eyelet, the other on good ground).
While on the subject, the last motor swap i did, i had a slow starter afterwards (that starter was fine before). Turned out to be a REALLY stubborn ground, where the bat negative lead (blue one) mounts to the trans. Took 3 attempts to get it good. Always something folks should take seriously.
Motor runs real strange when the bat isn't charging well- big stereo's that use alot of power will cause bad running when the voltage gets low-but my stereo always starts to blink out before engine runs bad. However, factoring the grounds we are talking about, they become more critical when you load up the car's system like that. I would just go through every ground (mostly ones at front, below rad, and then front left head), and all battery lead connections, for the heck of it.
Brakes:
2 bad master cylinders, one 'new' (not rebuild), one 3 months old (rebuild), failed when i installed new pads (pedal would have gone to floor when i installed new pads)
However, i'm never one to assume a new part is bad, so i needed to swap every other part of the brake system out before i could take it back to the store (refund). Installed the one from the SiS, and all is good in the world. Unfortunately, the freakin' Zimmermans i installed warped quicker than the last set, so i won't go down that road again! Regular brembo's for me, from now on.
good luck
posted by 75.230.154...
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