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Testing the APC Posted by sam96CS [Email]  (#852) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from sam96CS) on Tue, 15 Jul 2014 08:24:30
In Reply to: Re: 97 Aero - Slow Go!, ToddF, Tue, 15 Jul 2014 06:30:53 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
Bill Homer is right that you should convert to a T7 if you find that your T5 APC is bad. The T5 APC is overpriced and evil through and through.
Testing the APC:
1. Check the APC fuse (fuse panel in front of the front passenger seat) which is fuse #5. It is a 10 amp fuse and should not be blown.
2. Put the ignition in the ON position without starting the engine and listen to the APC. You should hear buzzing. If no sound then the APC is probably bad.
3. Disconnect the 3-pin electrical harness at the APC. With an ohm meter test the resistance between the APC's center pin and each of the two outer pins. The resistance should be 3 ohms, give or take one ohm, for both measurements. A short circuit (0 resistance) or extremely high resistance on either measurement indicates an electrical failure.
4. The APC can fail mechanically, and you can test for this by observing how air flows through the APC. I think I copied the following blow test procedure from an old post by Ari
Blow Tests:
Disconnect all hoses from the APC, but make sure you remember which hose connects to which port. The ports on the APC are marked C, R and W.
1. Blow in C- air should come out of W but not out of R.
2. Blow in R- air should come out of W.
3. Blow in W - air should come out of whichever port is open, but not the other port. If air comes out of both ports the valve is suspect. To check for a tight seal, blow into the W port and cover the port with air escaping with your finger. No air should come out of the uncovered port.
4. With the engine at idle and the BPC hooked up electrically, pull the hose off the C and blow into it. Do you get air out of both W and R? If so, the BPC is likely stuck.
, Tue, 15 Jul 2014 06:31:53, Tue, 15 Jul 2014 08:24:30 <-- Viewing This Message
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