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Been there, done that. Still waiting on the T-shirt.
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Posted by Ari [Email] (#2847) [Profile/Gallery] (more from Ari) on Tue, 28 Nov 2000 14:36:46 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Headlight Relay Problem, Paul R, Tue, 28 Nov 2000 13:58:27
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I've done this fix a few times.

Remove the relay, and carefully pry back the plastic tabs holding the case to the base. The base and all the guts will just slide out. There is a circuit board that sits upright in the case. This is where the problem lies.

The relay sees a lot of heat and vibration underhood. There are large solder pads that are used to hold the relay in place, and to bring the lugs from the relay base onto the circut board. Solder should never be used as a mounting method for large parts (or so the Military Specification says), so over time the vibration causes cracks in the larger solder pads. This causes intermittent connections in the relay circuit. A common problem is for the highs to flash by themselves, or to drop from high to low without warning. Eventually the highs don't work anymore, because the relay isn't energized (which switches from low to high beam).

Use a magnifying glass, and you'll probably see at least one cracked solder joint. Touch up ALL the big solder pads with a soldering iron and some fresh solder. Unless you're experienced at soldering, avoid the small pads. They usually don't crack, and the excess heat can damage small components.

This fix will work for another five or ten years, then you do it again. Much cheaper than a new relay, and all of 15 minutes work (assuming 10 minutes for the iron to heat up).

Good luck!

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