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John, I've been under the valve cover a few times to re-torque the head bolts and replace the timing chain. The camshafts are pretty easy to get off. Rotate the engine to TDC (I pulled on the serp belt with the plugs out). I started by carefully removing the center plunger from the chain tensioner. Since the tensioner cannot then move outwards, You know then that you don't have to worry about it taking up slack when you remove the camshafts. I'd use plastic ties to secure the chain to the sprockets so I know they can't move. Mark the chain and sprockets too in case the ties come off. Stuff some clean rags into the gaps around the timing chain to keep stuff from dropping into the engine. You need to put a open end wrench on the far end of the camshaft while undoing the camshaft bolt to hold it. Mark the position of everything, the bolts are not all the same (catastrophe will result if you get them back in the wrong place)! The caps should go back in their original positions. After removing the camshafts I plan on doing them a cylinder at a time, feeding in rope through the spark plug hole to fill up the cylinder so the valves can't drop. I saw a guy on youtube do it with a tube to keep the rope from sticking to the sides of the spark plug threads. Just get a long tube or put some tape around it so it can't fall all the way into the hole! That's as far as I am now. I saw some vids on youtube about getting the collets out that hold the valve spring retainer in place. I got a tool from handsontools to compress the spring (there are lots of others). It looks good. Need one of those magnet thingies to reach in to get the collets. I'm not sure how to get them back in yet, some say use a dab of grease to hold them as you put them back in. Also one youtube video I saw made it a point to take care to get the new seals seated all the way. If they aren't they won't do much good. Perhaps that's your trouble...
posted by 70.57.15...
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