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I picked this up from the BMW junkies. It works well on the M3 and helped with the Saab too.
1.Push the pistons in to change the brakes. No need to open the bleed nipples.
2.After pads are in and reconnected to caliper bracket, or if only flushing fluid. Pump the brake pedal 10-20 times to push air toward the bleed nipple and eliminate all vacuum in the power brake booster.
3.remove fluid from reservior, either with a vacuum bleeder or a turkey baster(sp).
4.hook up vacuum or pressure bleeder. If you don't have either, enlist the help of a friend (actually it is best to get help for the other to as well).
5.turn ignition to on, this is to help bleed the abs pump. I have flushed the syustem without the ignition on, but I feel the pedal is a little more firm with the ignition on. Of course I could be full of SH*(.
6.if you are using a pressure bleeder, open up the bleed nipple and pump the brake pedal 10 times. Continue bleeding until the fluid runs clear/clean. If you are using a vacuum bleeder, create some vacuum. Then open the bleed nipple and pump the brake pedal 10 times to clean the abs pump. This is were the helper comes in handy. I use the vacuum with long tubng and pump the brake pedal myself. This methos takes a little less than 30 minutes after the car is on jackstands
7.If all you have is a helper, have the helper pump the pedal until it is FIRM. Turn on ignition, have helper push and hold the pedal down. Open the nipple and close the nipple when the fluid stops flowing. Tell the helper to release the pedal and then push down again. Repeat this process until the fluid is clean/clear. MAKE SURE THE NIPPLE IS SNUG BEFORE THE HELPER RELEASES THE PEDAL. This is the easiest way to get air in the system.
Fluid: I found that the whole system takes a little less than 1 liter/quart. Since brake fluid in the container isn't much good in the container after it has been opened, I continue to flush the calipers until the container is empty. I just start at the first caliper and flush about 1/4 of what is left in the container.
Fluid type: Castrol LMA is econimical, Valvolene Syn-power (whatever it is called) is pretty economical too. I alternate between ATE Super Blue and ATE Typ200. Why? They have the highest boiling point and best price; about $10 through mail order and $15 at the local import parts store. Plus the blue is blue colored and the Typ200 is amber. This makes it really easy to tell when you have flushed out the old nasty stuff. Caveat: the blue fluid does stain the plastic reservoir a little.
posted by 192.132....
, Thu, 13 Sep 2001 11:04:55, Thu, 13 Sep 2001 13:12:22
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