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Re: Replacing a lock cylinder and an air mass meter Posted by Ari [Email] ![]() ![]() In Reply to: Replacing a lock cylinder and an air mass meter, Chris Mason, Thu, 21 Dec 2000 14:45:03 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
Replacing the Air Mass Meter is astoundingly easy. First, you disconnect the electrical connector. The AMM is in the hose on the way to the intake manifold - usually held on with over-center snap fasteners. Unclip, remove the old one, insert the new, reconnect the connector. Presto, chango, you're done!
You don't mention what year. In some years there is an adjustment, no adjustment in other years. In most cases, the car runs fine with the adjustment from the factory. I recommend Sobstory for AMM's - they sell rebuilt units for about $140 or so after the core charge. (the unit the dealer will sell you is also probably a rebuilt). Just make sure you tell them the year and model! There are two different AMMs, depending on the year. Although they are physically interchangeable, and the electrical connectors fit, DO NOT interchange them! It will damage the AMM or ECU. The difference is the older units (-005 at the end of the part number) have an adjusting screw, and usually a black plastic cover on part of the housing. The newer units have no adjusting screw and an aluminum cover.
By lock cylinder do you mean the ignition switch or a door lock? I've done both. A manual doesn't hurt - I heartily recommend the Bentley - it is worth the $$, hands down.
If you want to remove the ignition switch cylinder, it's tricky because Saab used special anti-tamper bolts. I was able to get them out with a big needle nose screwdriver. I recommend you disconnect the negative battery terminal first.
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