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Re: Replacing a lock cylinder and an air mass meter Posted by Ari [Email]  (#2847) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Ari) on Fri, 22 Dec 2000 10:24:15
In Reply to: Re: Replacing a lock cylinder and an air mass meter, Chris M, Fri, 22 Dec 2000 10:01:06 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
Hmmmm....
I assume you replace the battery first thing, and THEN the car just died on the highway and wouldn't turn over. Assuming the battery connections are good, this spells one major item for me - Ignition Switch. The switches have been known to fail, especially in the 900 where spills and crumbs have nowhere else to go but into the switch. When the car died, did it seem like it just turned off, or did the engine quit but the dash board light up?
Other possiblities - was the new battery really dead? If so, that implies no charging from the alternator, which could kill the engine. First, when you turn the car to ON but not start it, do you see a battery light? (looks like a box with a + and -). Does this light go out when the car is started? If yes to both, put a voltmeter on the battery terminals when the car is running - you should see about 13.5 volts or so. With accessories off (fan, headlights), you should see 13.0 or above at idle. If not, you may need a new voltage regulator, or possibly a new alternator, depending on the problem.
At first blush, I'd say the run then die is an electrical problem, because the engine fails to turn over. Ignition switch, charging system, battery cables, and especially where the negative terminal goes to chassis are all suspect.
I assume your shop is not all that familiar with Saabs. I particularly like the 'the turbo kicks in too soon' comment they made. No such animal. The turbo is always doing something at any speed above idle. It just depends on how noticable it is. You tend see the boost at 2500 rpm and above. Trust me, if engineers could get the boost to come on sooner, they would be doing it.
Poor idle and hesitation can be caused by the AMM, and by vacuum leaks. No reason to assume you don't have problems with both. I've rarely seen a car that didn't have some vacuum leaks. Inspect ALL air hoses for cracks, or if they're dangling with one end off. Check the hooter valve (aka Turbo Bypass valve) - it's the black plastic cylinder about 2 inches in diameter with two big hoses and one thin hose. Pull the thin hose off the intake plenum (throttle body) and suck on it. If you can pull air through the hose, the diaphram in the valve is shot, and that's a vacuum leak. Replace the valve.
If the maintenance history of the car is cloudy, it doesn't hurt to replace the plugs, cap, and rotor. Make sure the plugs are gapped to the value in the manual or on the decal in the engine compartment.
Lastly, from what you report the shop to have said, I'd find another shop. It sounds a lot like they're shotgunning the problem, an expensive proposition (for you, anyway). A good Saab mechanic may cost a few bucks more, but if they end up fixing the problem with fewer parts and fewer hours, it'll be cheaper.
Good luck, and let us know how it's going!
, Fri, 22 Dec 2000 08:37:47, Fri, 22 Dec 2000 10:24:15 <-- Viewing This Message, Thu, 21 Dec 2000 15:14:32
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