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If you've been following my past threads on this frustrating task, I was able to get the shaft to come out using the no-pry method the correct way (thanks, RayF!). I could not believe the little amount of tightening that was needed on the nut to extract the shaft. After previously using a 5-lb mini sledgehammer to whack on the end of the pry bar to no avail, just a few quick turns of the wrench on the nut and the shaft basically "popped" out. I had been attempting this method incorrectly before, then RayF re-posted the right way to do it, and it worked perfectly.
It appears it was rust keeping it locked in place. The pilot bearing end of the shaft is completely covered in rust color and powder. The bearing itself is also in the same condition.
I had a difficult time removing the slave/pp/disc assembly. Since the slave is recessed into the upper chainwheel (thanks for the clarification, CMyles!), and the pp has such a high amount of spring pressure/resistance, I needed to basically squeeze both ends inwards, like holding a fat sandwich together. This was done by the means and 2 large handled flat screwdrivers and my gloved hands. I was able to jostle the slave out of the recess, and then slowly worked the whole assembly out a little at a time. I also think this process was hampered by the fact that the slave piston had been sent out of its seat and wedged into the pp since I had done what you're NOT supposed to do (press on the clutch pedal after installing the clutch/pp tool).
It's all out now and am working on replacing all of the seals. From what I have read, the shaft seal just pops out and in, and the pilot bearing is pressed in. I was hoping to use a suitable drift of some sort and just pound out the old one and pound in the new one with a hammer. The rear main seal I am planning on removing with a metal scribe that has a small 90-degree angled tip, perfect for picking and prying things out. To get the new one in, I plan on using a drift I'll make out of something I hope to find at Home Depot, the same diameter as the seal. I will pound this in with a hammer.
I will be searching the archives on tricks to locking the flywheel so I can remove it to replace the pilot bearing. If anyone can post me their trick, please do so.
Also, the flywheel and pp faces are perfect. No burn marks, discolorations, pitting, gouges, etc. Can I just spray them with brake cleaner to get rid of any grease and re-install, or do I need to sand them down?
Also, is there any other little tidbits I need to be doing, such as applying grease or anti-seize to the shaft, the pilot bearing sleeve, etc? I seem to remember something about applying lube to the lip of the slave cylinder--is this true? Does it matter if I'm using a new slave, or re-building the old one as far as this lube is concerned?
Thanks, All, for your continued support!!!!!
Joe
'93 900TC 147K
'98 9000CSET 96K
posted by 12.111....
, Wed, 12 Apr 2006 15:33:08
, Wed, 12 Apr 2006 08:04:30
, Wed, 12 Apr 2006 08:46:29, Wed, 12 Apr 2006 15:31:57, Wed, 12 Apr 2006 16:56:34
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