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Re: Please help diagnose poor shifting into 1st & 2nd.. Posted by CMyles [Email]  (#1126) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from CMyles) on Thu, 21 Feb 2008 10:09:38
In Reply to: Please help diagnose poor shifting into 1st & 2nd..., Jonathan Scupin   [Profile/Gallery]
, Wed, 20 Feb 2008 21:25:53
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Jonathan,
In cold weather the clutch master cylinder seals seem to fail a lot with the result being incomplete clutch disengagement and difficult shifting. A broken piston return spring inside the clutch MC will make the situation much worse. Before you indict the synchromesh balk rings, 1-2 shift fork or any other internal gearbox parts it's wise to be really sure that this isn't an external problem and there's plenty of potential for that. The shift rod has to rotate clockwise (seen from in front) to peg the 1-2 shift fork so anything that interferes with sufficient clockwise rotation of the rod will make selecting first and second difficult. Here's the list of things that can do that; rubberized coupling out of adjustment, rubberized coupling defective, shifter box not tight on floor or mis-located on floor, shifter ball retainer ring not sufficiently tight, defective motor mount(s). With a bad motor mount the rod is rotating OK but the engine is also able to rotate (clockwise under load, viewed from the front) and reduce the affect. The premise for adjusting the coupling is that you put the gearbox in third gear, loosen the coupling, pin the shift lever in third gear position, tighten the coupling and then tighten the shifter box to the floor. (If you clear access to the front of the shifter box you'll see a hole in the casting and a hole in the rod. A pin through those two holes locates the shift lever in third position.) In your case you could just clean and mark the shift rod and coupling shoulder with a felt pen so that when you make an adjustment you can maintain the effective length (which isn't part of the problem here) but change the rotation a little. To help engage first and second you'll hold the coupling still and rotate the rod a tiny bit (1-2 mm around the surface of the shaft) anti-clockwise (as when viewed from in front of the car). If you go to far you'll have difficulty with reverse and maybe fifth. There is a procedure detailed in the Saab section 4 manual for fully proper adjusting of the linkage if you have access to that book. (Go to a dealer and ask the service manager if you can look at their book.) If this situation developed rapidly or "overnight" then the most likely thing is a clutch hydraulic problem (with the MC being the prime suspect), a broken motor mount, or sheared coupling (which you say doesn't appear to be the case). Shifting problems that are related to worn internal components generally develop gradually and affect one gear for a while before another is affected. Severely worn pinion bearings can cause poor shifting into multiple gears but you get the symptoms of bad P. bearings long before that occurs (if you can hear). Good luck.
posted by 198.233....
, Wed, 20 Feb 2008 21:25:53
, Fri, 22 Feb 2008 16:05:45, Fri, 22 Feb 2008 16:10:46, Thu, 21 Feb 2008 20:41:52, Thu, 21 Feb 2008 10:09:38 <-- Viewing This Message, Thu, 21 Feb 2008 20:38:05, Thu, 21 Feb 2008 09:27:55, Thu, 21 Feb 2008 20:31:39, Thu, 21 Feb 2008 08:36:36, Thu, 21 Feb 2008 16:50:59, Thu, 21 Feb 2008 19:08:19
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