1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
Unless your pedal shaft's hole is elongated, the pin and clip setup is best. It has worked fine for 900s for long long miles.
Replacing the yoke and its shaft in the mouth of the master cylinder, still in car, is NOT a piece of cake, nor is pulling one at a junkyard. But if you have lots of patience and can work upside down under a dash, stretching in from the ground beside the car, you can do it, with a GOOD pair of snap ring pliers.
Have good vision and plenty of light.
And be ready for a mess. The spring will very likely push the body of the cylinder out too, and fluid will come dripping out, what's in the cylinnder and what's in the reservoir above too.
You'll have to shove the works, spotlessly clean, down into the bore, get the new yoke onto the pedal and with a pin in it (save clip for later), as well as its ball end into the cylinder pushing the piston in, with t he snap ring floating around the shaft of the new yoke, then using pedal to hold the works in far enough, get your snap ring pliers into the holes, squeeze snap ring in, and get it far enough into the bore to snap into its groove. Then attach the clip to the clevis pin. THEN if the works came out as they probably did, bleed the system.
The clip you were missing is identical to the clips that hold the hatch struts to the body on hatchbacks. You can take one strut off your hatch temporarily, use a stick to hold the hatch open till you can get another, and use that clip. Oh wait a minute do you have a convertible? We==elll get one at junkyard, or someone will no doubt be able to mail you one if you have a friend on here you trust to have your mailing address. Or get one at a Saab indy's shop.
DON't put a bolt in if it is threaded, the threads will chew up the holes in yoke and shaft.
posted by 72.73.6...
posted by 72.73.6...
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