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1985-1998 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
Along with the other posters' advice, read as much as you can about the procedure you are going to undertake before you do it. Read the Haynes for sure, but definitely read the http://www.quasimotors.com and http://www.townsendimports.com write-ups as well. In most cases they are more helpful than the Haynes. Make sure the jack you buy goes high enough. I got the 15 dollar black jack at Walmart, it only goes 14.5 inches I think, 19 inches would be much better. Your garage sounds fine, you won't have to raise your car up that high, just as long as you have 2 jack stands underneath, you will be able to do most any job. You will definitely acquire tools as you do work, I know I have, so make sure you have a good store open as well as another car available when you are doing work. You will need a torque wrench for the CV Joint repair, one that can torque to 207 ft. lbs. They are also handy for your lug nuts. You will also need a breaker bar or t-flex handle to get the axle nut off, it is a 32 mm nut, and is usually on there pretty good, I broke a ratchet, a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter trying to get it off, and I broke another ratchet on the strut mount nuts. I did the CV swap instead of a remanufactured axle, cost more, but after reading the posts on this site, I didn't want any of the headaches that were mentioned. I also opted for a Lobro CV joint, instead of a Scantech, was 40 bucks more, but that is the OE supplier. I took the whole axle out, much easier, and make sure you have some grease for the inner joint, Townsend recommends a certain type, but I am sure you can use regular CV grease. Use 2 tubes for the outer joint, a new joint holds a lot of grease. Make sure you have the crimp clamp pliers, and the inner boot clamp is a bitch to get the pliers on, but I managed to do it, it helps to start the crimp slightly on the bench before you put the axle in. Some people say used a big hose clamp, I don't agree with that, but that is just me. A zip tie will work in a pinch, but only a quick fix, and a real metal clamp should be the only thing on there. Mounts are pretty straightforward, but can be a pain. You can check on their condition when you do the CV Joint. A 19mm deep socket is needed, not the 15 or 16 that Quasi said, Townsend has more reliable information regarding sizes for most things. Definitely needed a 17mm wrench for the rear mount, and plenty of solvent to clean up oil, grease and grime from back there. I pressed new bushing in to the top mounting brackets, using the scantech tool. Worked fine, took some muscle though. The biggest hassle was taking the vertical bracket off. If you don't have to replace the vertical mount bushing, you are lucky. Some of the best advice comes from this site, I have asked many questions and the feedback is usually spot on. I am sure you will have some questions as you go, don't hesitate. Good luck.
Chris
posted by 65.121.17...
, Sat, 7 Jan 2006 15:18:46, Thu, 5 Jan 2006 10:32:34
, Fri, 6 Jan 2006 10:28:58
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