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Hi,
I bet many independent Saab mechanics have Tech-II: it's the SAAB specific diagnostic/programming computer. Call around; I'm sure someone has one. My dealer will often do Tech II stuff for free, because it literally takes 5 minutes to hook it up and get some codes. It's the part after that that hurts...
I got the hoses from Baker Precision Parts (bakerprecision.com)as I wanted to try out the whole silicone hose thing. I think they are made by hose-techniques. I bought a section of black and one of red to compare. The black is definitely better quality, like the stock ones on the BPC; the red is more brittle. For your purposes, the stuff at AutoZone etc (not the "dress-up" fake silicone hoses, just regular rubber) will work just fine if you find a problem, is cheaper ($0.35/ft) and readily available. Most of the hoses are 4 mm, the BPC ones are 6 mm.
I checked the hoses by popping the hood with the engine running, popped off the black engine cover, and started gently pulling on them. I listened for changes in the idle, hissing, or other weird noises as I pulled, and visually checked the fitting ends with a flashlight. I saw the cracks in the MAP hose, and the hose running to the fuel rail was stiff and brittle to the point of crumbling. I shut the engine off before replacing them!
My PCV valve grommet was also gone, so I replaced it (Honda part at parts store fit fine). I replaced all the hoses by slitting the old ones at the fittings, measuring the length, and cutting new ones (keep the check valve oriented correctly). I also loosened my coolant fill cap (to depressurize the system), and unclamped any coolant hoses that were in the way of my work.
Removing the IAC made things more accessible too, and gave me an excuse to clean it with carb cleaner. I secured all fittings that I could with zip ties, and the whole thing took about 45 minutes from start to reassembly (you will get a bit grimy).
The 4 hoses from the throttle body are, looking down from the front:
MAP
Fuel Rail: (hose runs off to right, to a pressure solonoid(?))
PCV thing: there's a white check valve hanging off this hose, which leads to the valve cover
BPV: this is the long hose running along the intake piping to the Bypass Valve
As for the IAC, I think it operates whenever your throttle is closed and engine speeds are down(coasting, stopped with clutch in, etc.). Are these the conditions under which you were having problems? Are you having surging problems while under throttle as well? The IAC has a mechanical component (the part you clean) and an electrical one (hooked to the computer), so it may not be functioning properly in any case.
All the things I listed in the previous post are really just "tune-up" items; they won't fix anything if your computer is wonky, but they won't hurt either. I'm still guessing your problem is computer related, by virtue of the fact it occured suddenly after a battery swap... it's the most parsimonious explanation.
Best,
Lutfisk
posted by 132.236.139...
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