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Re: COOLANT CHANGE
Posted by Dean (more from Dean) on Thu, 7 Nov 2002 21:01:23
In Reply to: COOLANT CHANGE, ROBERT S, Thu, 7 Nov 2002 09:46:38
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Search and read drs<underscore>install for water pump and thermostat posts. It is possible to drain and fill coolant with almost zero loss.
The stat should have a little air vent to help fill the head.
When you drain coolant to renew it, you should flush out the old. A shop vac will clear fluid from the block, and heater core. Fluid also gets trapped in the horizontal tubes of the rad.
When filling, add the new coolant, concetrated, from the jug. Then add distilled water till full. That is very near 50:50. No need to by a second gallon for a little bit more.
Air does get trapped in the head, and the head can overheat, and getting things topped up is not easy. If I was doing a coolant job over again, I would remove the heater hose that connect to the end of the head, and fill things slowly until I saw the coolant up to that point, then would slip the hose part way on to leave an air gap and fill to get liquid into the heater hose, then home it and tighen it up. But whatever works... works.
posted by 65.68.101...
Posts in this Thread:
- COOLANT CHANGE, ROBERT S, Thu, 7 Nov 2002 09:46:38
- Re: COOLANT CHANGE, Dean, Thu, 7 Nov 2002 21:01:23 <-- Viewing This Message
- Re: COOLANT CHANGE, Asia, Thu, 7 Nov 2002 15:08:40
- Potentially dangerous situation (+), Vlad, Thu, 7 Nov 2002 14:46:27
- Coolant system capacity is about 8.5 qts...., REM in Seattle, Thu, 7 Nov 2002 13:52:58
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