[Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
![]() | [Main Performance Bulletin Board | BBFAQ |
Prev by Date | Next by Date | Post Followup ]
Member Login / Signup - Members see fewer ads. - Latest Member Gallery Photos
thanks alot guys. heres what i did for start up. Posted by Saabu [Email] ![]() ![]() In Reply to: you want to break it in semi hard, jak ![]() |
a fellow at work who used to build diesel engines suggested i crank it first with no plugs to get oil pressure up, then plugs and FP fuse in.
it worked fine although i ran into numerous snags on start-up.
first, i had oil spraying all over on the drivers side becuase i had forgotten to put in an oil pathway plug bolt in the block behind the flywheel. So, clutch and flywheel had to come out. i was both embarrassed and relieved about the oversight and easy fix.
Second, had a small coolant leak on the forward side of the waterpump, a gasket i had neglected to replace in the rebuild process.
Third, i had not tightened down the turbo oil feed line connection (custom braided line installed in lieu of hard pipe) on the turbo so had oil leak. tightened it down and still leaking. took it off and found i hadnt wrapped it with teflon tape so did that. crossthreaded the fitting so had to repair the threads on the male end of the fitting. got it installed but still leaking so gave it a few more tugs to tighten it and leak stopped. think i'll have to replace that fitting since threads were damaged....
Fourth, car started and idle was way up and down so disconnected O2 sensor on advice of my mechanic, that allowed idle to moderate. once engine was a few minutes warm it would hold idle. Suddenly the engine died, as if someone had turned the key off. thought it was fuel pump but no, turns out in fixing the turbo leak i'd hit the hall sensor connection and weakened the wiring. so used a tie wrap to hold it to the distributor. i discovered this by having the key on, then wiggling the hall connection - i could hear the fuel pump and relay activating when connection was made. that was an easy diagnosis.
Was able to warm the car up in order to retorque the bolts, ran it for almost 20 minutes, then coooled for 30 minutes (this is what the Elring gasket kit info sheets recommends) - again on advice of my Saab mechanic, was told to loosen and then retorque each bolt in order, to 59 ft lbs plus another 1/4 turn. This is called torque to yield and the bolts stretch in that last 1/4 turn. i was so tired i could only manage about an extra 1/8 turn. i did the torquing in one turn - i turned thru the 59 ft lbs and kept applying presssure til i couldnt turn it no more.
hope this helps others later! thanks for your suggestions guys
Wayne in Calgary
87 SPG
86 Notchback turbo
posted by 209.89.1...
_______________________________________ 1988 900 TC 2000 Viggen 1997 900 TC son has 2002 9-3 SET
No Site Registration is Required to Post - Site Membership is optional (Member Features List), but helps to keep the site online
for all Saabers. If the site helps you, please consider helping the site by becoming a member.
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |