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Replacing your distributor vacuum advance diaphram is only necessary if the one that's on there is broken. Kevin K's test is simple and easy -- I should have thought of that! (Thanks, Kevin!) Detach and plug the vacuum hose port on the intake manifold and then start the car. With the engine running, alternately apply vacuum and pressure to the diaphram hose and see if there is any change in idle speed. If so, the diaphram is working. If not, it needs to be replaced.
Also, as I said earlier, make sure your timing setting is right. The boost pressure retard function won't put your timing in the right area under boost if the initial setting is off.
If your distributor advance/retard =IS= working, you might want to try adjusting that wastegate actuator. This is easiest to do with the car up on a lift, working from underneath, but it CAN be done from above. Use an inspection mirror to examine the linkage. Clean this whole area off before you start working down there; it's apt to be really dirty. There is an actuator rod protruding from the wastegate actuator under the turbocharger. This rod moves the linkage which opens the wastegate, and it's adjustable.
To get higher maximum boost, you shorten the rod.
Here's how: The end of the rod has a hole in it, which sits over a cylindrical pin on the wastegate linkage, and is held there by a springy clip. Pull the clip, and slip the rod down off the pin. The rod is threaded, and a nut is stationed at the base of the rod to lock it in place. By holding the threaded (base) end and loosening the nut, you can then rotate the rod and screw it in or out a few turns. Don't go crazy here... turn it in (shorten the rod) about 2 turns and then take it for test ride. See what max boost level you get. Putting that little clip back on the post is tricky -- I replaced mine with a hairpin clip (15 cents at Pep Boys) that was easier to use. Also, after your test drive, that thing is going to be MAD HOT, so you'll have to wait an hour or so before you try again.
Let me know what happens!
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