1985-1998 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
[Profile/Gallery]
, Thu, 21 Dec 2000 11:15:10
Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup
Note that my experience is with an '88 9KT
First thing to do is to buy a donner car of the same year, or make a deal with an auto salvage yard to get all the parts you need from one car. Get the Turbo model if you can. There are lots of bits and pieces you will need, so having the donner car parked outside your garage has a lot of advantages. Plus you can see how it should all go together. The good thing is that you will not have to modify anything on your car to get the parts to fit. All the mounting holes, wireing harness stuff, etc should all be there.
Somebody on the board posted a list of parts once, but you will need:
1. Left side axle.
2. Intermediate shaft support bracket.
3. The transmission and intermediate shaft. (Note: the tranny out of the turbo model is the one you want, because the final gear ratio is almost identical to the auto tranny of both the standard and turbo model)
4. The clutch assembly and the flywheel. Do yourself a favor and get a new clutch and a new (not rebuilt) slave cylinder for the clutch.
5. The Brake/Clutch/Gas pedal assembly, clutch master cylinder and connecting hydralic lines.
6. Shifter, and its various linkage parts and console trim. I suggest you buy a new fexible linkage instead of using the old one because the part has been redesigned and is better.
There is probably other stuff I have forgotten about.
You will need to jump a connection in the auto shift assembly to defeat the park interlock.
There is an additional vacumn switch to install on the clutch pedal for the cruise control. T into the vacumn line going to the vacumn switch on the brake.
Be sure to change that intermediate support bracket or you are guareenteed to bust the intermediate shaft within 1000 miles or so. The difference between the two is only 3mm or so, but it makes a difference.
Consider changing your motor mounts (unless you have already) while you are doing all this work as they tend to fail after 45,000 to 60,000 miles anyway.
I had a mechanic do the actual switch for me, and the whole deal was around $2500. The only reason I know so much about it, is that the mechanic didn't, so I did a lot of research on this board before and during the "operation" to help him out.
Kurt
, Wed, 20 Dec 2000 17:42:34, Wed, 20 Dec 2000 19:40:27
, Wed, 20 Dec 2000 19:44:51, Wed, 20 Dec 2000 20:34:08, Wed, 20 Dec 2000 23:27:32, Thu, 21 Dec 2000 11:15:10, Thu, 21 Dec 2000 15:56:55
No Site Registration is Required to Post - Site Membership is optional (Member Features List), but helps to keep the site online
for all Saabers. If the site helps you, please consider helping the site by becoming a member.
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
