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More Info - O2 Sensor Posted by Justin VanAbrahams [Email]  (#32) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Justin VanAbrahams) on Sun, 12 May 2002 16:18:25
In Reply to: First DIY Tune-Up... some problems (please help), thereuare, Sat, 11 May 2002 18:24:14 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
Hey there...
Let's see:
1) As Rob said, there's usually not a reason to mess with that set screw. It is there for idle adjustment but unless you have a ton (I mean a TON) of miles on your car the need to move it is pretty unusual. If you do, be sure you've loosened the nuts on it, and hit it with generous amounts of PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench or similar. MOve it slowly, and carefully. They are fragile, and they do break. But, if you've got a high idle, the more likely explanations are:
a) loose or disconnected vacuum lines - inspect them all for obvious damage, loose fitting, or cracks. If you find nothing, leave the car running and pinch each and every vacuum line off and see if the idle changes. If it does, take a close look at that line (both ends) and replace as necessary.
b) buildup around the throttle plate - you'd never believe how much a little debris around the throttle plate can affect your idle. Get some carb cleaner and a cloth and hose down the inside of the throttle body around the throttle plate, and polish if off as best you can. Keep working it til the rag comes back clean.
c) mis-adjusted timing - with EZK, your idle is dramatically affected by timing. Skip all the steps in the Bentley manual and just carefully, slowly adjust the distributor with the car running until the idle is close to normal. If you have to turn it more than a few degrees (10-15), something else is off. When you get it, double-check with a timing light. IME you can *usually* time a Saab by ear, but you always should check your guestimate.
2) Again, as Rob said the flywheels gets corroded. Since you've got a non-turbo, pulling the clutch cover is easy. I'd go ahead and do that, then get some low-grit sandpaper and polish off the flywheel just in front of the ring gear. Find that nub Rob mentioned and go to work to the left of it. It's marked from 0 to 20 degrees, which equates to a couple inches of surface. You should be able to find some of it. Mark the 14 degree location with something bright, since that's what you're looking for on an '86 S. I've used whiteout and nail polish and all sorts of things. :) Just be sure it's heat & oil resistent.
3) Unlike turbo cars, your O2 sensor is under the car, just in front of the cat. It's odd that anything would have had to be done to it to replace the cat, since the collector it's attached to it not part of the cat itself. My guess is that when they pulled the cat they damaged the collector and had to weld in a new piece along with an O2 sensor flange. It's possible they may have damaged it in the process. Alternatively, they may have gotten a little overenthusiastic with the anti-seize compound and killed its ground in the process. Anyway, you need to be under the car to deal with it, but the plugs for it (1 2-wire plug and 1 1-wire plug) are in the engine bay near the cabin air intake. Hunt around for a lone black wire and then find it's mate, a 2-pin connector. The single wire is the O2 sensor signal, and the 2-pin connector is its heating element. They both should be plugged in. Normally, an O2 sensor won't cause a high idle, but it could. Check it out since the cat replacement triggered the idle issue.
Good luck!
posted by 64.166.4...
, Mon, 13 May 2002 09:55:28, Mon, 13 May 2002 12:50:22, Sun, 12 May 2002 16:18:25 <-- Viewing This Message, Mon, 13 May 2002 04:10:37
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