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First step: Get a code scan Posted by Bill Homer [Email] (#3427) [Profile/Gallery] (more from Bill Homer) on Mon, 25 Aug 2008 11:14:16 In Reply to: you don't need a tech2 for a '96, Mr. Bubble, Mon, 25 Aug 2008 09:34:52 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
Large autoparts stores, i.e. Autozone, will do this at no charge, hoping that you will buy replacement parts from them when they tell you what is wrong. This only works for 1996+ cars that have the OBD-II system (required on all 1996+ cars sold in the US). From your description, you may have a heater circuit problem, not an air leak - at least on the rear sensor.
Your assumption on the proper resistance for the oxygen sensor heater circuit may be incorrect. I don't know the specs for your SAAB (mine is a 1994 with different sensors), but similar Bosch four-wire rear sensors used on my 1996 Audi have a heater circuit resistance of about 4 Ohms when new and will trigger a "oxygen sensor heater circuit malfunction" code and illuminate the Check Engine Light when the resistance creeps up to somewhere in the 20 - 30 Ohm range, an effect of age (my resistance to electron movement has probably also increased with age). I replaced the original $225/each rear sensors with $40 Bosch sensors intended for the 1993 Chrysler Concorde V6 spliced to the orignal plug - and yes, I bought them at Autozone because they were cheap and in stock; they allowed me to pass the Illinois EPA test and have been working fine for a year. If you need info on a good splicing technique, I have provided a link to an Audiworld post a few times; if you can't find it, send me a note.
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