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Salutations:
Well - for whatever it is worth - I remain convinced that what we should do is open up the BPC on purchase and simply cut a new groove in the ring seal to one side of the vent for the wire from the upper solenoid.
Put a little solder over the old cut above of the rear facing vent so it doesn't leak, repack turning the units 30 degrees to one side allow for proper wire alignment while retaining approx vent placement and I'm pretty sure the unit will last a lifetime.
All I can think is that they placed the wire over the vent to try to balance the air flow on both sides of the solenoid/vent unit because a wire on one side could create a small dead spot for crap to collect.
In practice what it actually does is make the control disk float towards the blocked vent and cut a groove from the inside of the vent ring out until it hits the wire. About 25,000 - 30,000 miles, bob's your uncle #3 pin goes dead and it's base boost or overboost until you come up with the extra $275 for a replacement or go MBC.
Eventually, the BPC control disk either has to cut through to the wire (my problem) or jam up in the groove it cuts until it chips or breaks first. I'm now sure that is why we get BPC buzz and erratic boost for a while before it shorts #3 pin or fails to overboost.
I'm willing to live with potential for some dead air in the BPC case in exchange for the lifetime of service the mod will make. Give it a tap and a shot of air every so often to make sure it is clean or put a simple filter in the air line.
Anyway - have my Relief type Regulator in place between the turbo and wastegate lines and I have overboost in hand (although not in the detail the BPC does) with slight adjustments to the dial.
$50 and an afternoon of set-up runs between two exits on the local highway. That was it. I couldn't get it to work through the OEM BPC air circuit itself - but I will put some more runs into it next time I some time. Don't like the untidy look in there now.
Dexter J
posted by 24.222....
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