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, Sun, 20 Nov 2011 06:07:55
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You could knock the glass out of the door and try Dukes of Hazzard-ing it, hands on the roof and slither into the car. They say fresh air is good for you.
Seriously, this sounds like what happens to the rear doors on older 9000s where they corrode and the lube dries out, and they don't get used enough to stay free.
Has the car been sitting?
I'm surprised you can't force the door button up, because on the front it's almost a direct link to the latchworks, instead of via two plastic pivots and a long length of wire rod, on back doors.
My advice is line up a new inner door panel, from a nearby indy or pull one yourself at a junkyard, then I think you're going to have to hack your way into the door, possibly, or as you say pull the seat and maybe you can get at all fasteners from inside and pull it intact. You'll have to bust up the plastic courtesy light if yours isn't already busted, and get another of those at least, if you do this with door closed.
Then you peel back the plastic inner liner and you can get at the latchworks. If you can't force the button up to unlock with the panel still on the door, maybe you can with the panel off and skin peeled back so you can see it. Or maybe some spray lube will get in to halp loosen things.
I'd recommend pulling the latchworks right out of the interior of the door and fully cleaning and lubing it, then reinstalling, instead of just spray-lubing it in place. But it ain't easy.
To get door panel off, you take the end screw, T10 Torx, that holds the courtesy light onto door, out the jamb end of the door, or crack that tab off, tip light out at back and unhook the front lip, and unplug its two wires.
Then up in its hole is a T25 screw holding the sheet metal clip that the courtesy light was screwed onto. Has to come out. Pop two plastic caps off at front and rear of cubby and remove the long screws under them, T25 also I think. Pry plastic plugs out of door-closing handle and two screws there, also T25. Fish out with a magnet so as not to lose them.
Then more subtle, grab (with pliers) the cat's-tongue shaped black toggle switch for choosing which side's electric mirror you want to adjust, and pull straight off. It will reveal beneath it a much skinnier toggle. In behind that is a little black foam rubber pad. Pry it aside and there's a little plastic tab, which you pry (forward, or aft, I can't remember) to let the switch rig unhook from the plastic latch surround. Swing its rear end out and then front end unhooks. Unplug it.
Now beneath it is a T20 sheet metal screw and a metal clip, that's the last solid fastener of the door panel. Open door-opening handle to widest swing, and the black plastic surround will lift from the bottom and swivel around the handle and unhook from the door panel with two catches at top.
Next run your door window all the way down. Then, the panel may have a pop-in upholstery-style fastener or two down near bottom - - the rear door has one, near rear. If so find it and insert a pry bar near it and pop it free, or maybe bottom of panel will just swing out freely and doesn't have such fasteners.
Now you need to pop it HARD straight up from bottom with your hand or a rubber mallet, to start releasing the top edge - - there are four spring-steel clips slid into the top black plastic that clip over the edge of the door sheet metal just inside the window glass. If window isn't run down all the way getting this edge off is just about impossible. (Also needs to be wide open for reassembly, later.) Once it's worked up and off the sheet metal, it's free, except for lifting it high off the door lock button and unplugging the trunk-release switch button from its wires.
Set door panel off to side, and use a razor blade to cut thru the wide masking tape at top of doorliner plastic, and thru the gooey urethane that holds that plastic to the door at rear edge, to fold it down and away from latch area.
With luck you can get it working by lubing it at this point. If you can lube it enough and get it working well enough, then it's back together from here. Electric lock motor may also need a little lube, after prying up its black rubber shroud off motor.
If you have to take latchworks out of door, it's held by three big T45 screws in from strike-catch mechanism, that remove that. (Needs to work freely, and should be lubed at this point.) Then a T10 screw revealed under that mechanism. Then a plastic push-pin fastener, to door sheet metal. And a plastic pop-off-the-rod-and-turn-off-to-the-side connector, for the link from door-opening latch handle out front, maybe a similar to door-locking knob?, just how from electric locking motor I can't recall but you can see, and a little poppet-ball link from key cylinder to lock-unlock part of latchworks, which you'll have to run window all the way to top again to reach. AND a fat multiprong electrical connection.
Once it's all lubed free, on reinstall, you'll have to have the outer door-strike-latching mech in its LATCHED position when setting it in place to bolt back to door, so that its skinny prong that swings the switch arm that shows when door is open or not enters the proper slot in a nylon arm on the latchworks.
Have fun if you're doing this yourself.
posted by 71.173.78...
, Sun, 20 Nov 2011 06:07:55, Sun, 20 Nov 2011 17:13:37, Mon, 21 Nov 2011 18:37:18, Tue, 22 Nov 2011 18:52:01, Sun, 20 Nov 2011 17:55:22, Sun, 20 Nov 2011 12:50:00
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