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Re: 1.7 and 1.85 triumph engines Posted by Dan [Email]  (#2459) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Dan) on Mon, 29 May 2006 08:34:22
In Reply to: Re: 1.7 and 1.85 triumph engines, Richard Cooper, Mon, 29 May 2006 04:16:24 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
There are three things worth mentioning:
there have been improvements to the tensioner over the years as the first one, in particular, didn't work so well. You can still buy them and the new one is the one you'll get.
The chain and one of the guides can still be purchased as of 2 months ago.
the entire procedure CAN be done with the engine in the car. Did it the other day. It is a matter of lifting the engine up and sliding it forward. Disconnecting the shift linkage is probably necessary. All I saved time on, though, was the dropping of the axles/wheels/etc. Just letting you all know.
Lastly, the adjustment to the rail to help the tensioner out is usually done with the end cover on. It requires a long-necked spanner, sometimes bent just a bit. With a flashlight, you can see the bolt quite easily. Just a slight loosening, a small prybar (very small, like screwdriver small,) and you can help the tensioner out in its job. If you have the right wrench, then 20 minutes is more than enough time. If your guide rails look ok (take black cover off engine and have a look) then chances are adjustment is an option. Any of the shops that will tackle the timing chain will know how to adjust the guide rail as well. If your car still runs, and your only problem is a noisy chain (which should be noisier than most as it is a double chain), then have a shop try the adjustment. If you want to try it yourself first, go for it. it is not that difficult. Again, remove the valve cover, look in there where the chain is, find the bolt, (it is the top bolt, driver's side, that holds the airm that comes up to the upper sprocket as well. Is "usually" a 13mm, may be a 12mm though), get a wrench that fits, (you'll need a wrench long enough to reach past the depth of the head, as the bolt is just below that depth), loosen slightly, push the rail toward the chain (not too tight now) and while holding it in place, re-torque the bolt. It would be worth investing in a new wrench if you think you can tackle it by yourself. You may need a new valve cover gasket when you put everything back together but generally even the local autozone can get those. If the cork still has some spring, a little sealant will probably do fine. The gaskets are usually 7-8 bucks, though, so trying to work with something used may not be worth it.
I suppose this all depends on why you feel you need the procedure done in the first place. Fill us in so we know what you might really need. If you can pull the engine, you can do the whole timing chain set-up without a problem, IMO. Getting the crank pulley off can be a bear at times but short of busting it loose with the "brace wrench against frame of car and with coil wire removed, engage the starter just briefly", you can always get a friend to hold the flywheel while you use a big breaker bar and the right socket to bust it loose. Every 99 I've ever had has leaked from the seal behind the pulley so you'd be changing that as well. Why not do a head gasket while your in there? Live it up a little.
Anyway, let us know exaclty what you think is going on with the engine, and good luck.
dan
posted by 130.127.58...
, Thu, 25 May 2006 16:16:06, Fri, 26 May 2006 17:39:26, Sat, 27 May 2006 13:05:12, Mon, 29 May 2006 05:47:11, Mon, 29 May 2006 08:34:22 <-- Viewing This Message, Thu, 25 May 2006 09:07:31
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