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Re: 25A instead of 10A...
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Posted by Bill Homer [Email] (#3427) [Profile/Gallery] (more from Bill Homer) on Wed, 26 Dec 2007 15:58:18 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: 25A instead of 10A..., Steve C., Wed, 26 Dec 2007 13:58:34
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Replacing a 10A fuse with 25A is completely irresponsible! But based on what you previously described about this repair shop, why is that a suprise? This is a fairly simple circuit consisting of driver transistors, wire and the BPC solenoid. As I recall, the wire to the BPC is "hot" and the transistors ground either side of the BPC via Pulse Width Modulation circuits.

Are you done making the car "test ready" for inspection? I would wait on debugging the boost issue until you can make the car pass its test - the car is still drivable, though not quite as fast as it's intended to be.

First of all, you need to fix the charging circuit; less than 13.X Volts will kill the battery, especially if you drive at night with the lights on (and what a nice time to be stranded somewhere with a dead battery!). For a quick diagnosis, you may want to find one of the car parts places that will test the charging system for free, hoping to sell you a battery or alternator - Autozone and others do this. Chances are, you need a new voltage regulator, which is not too bad of a repair procedure - do a search here for instructions - please disconnect the battery before doing this though!!!

When you get around to fixing the boost issue, there are hundreds of posts on this board. My car was quite messed up, required three things to repair full boost:
1. ECU - one of the BPC transistors was fried; it's repairable.
2. BPC Solenoid - normal failure, can cause issue #1. Easy to check with a multimeter (you bought one, right?).
3. Cruise Control module - signalled "on" at all times, the car limits itself to base bost when cruise is engaged.

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